“electric bicycle motors -electric bike diy”

next the the smaller diameter 9c, the hubzilla looks to be an oversized version of the 9c.[img src=https://www.electricbike.com/wp-content/flagallery/hub-motors/thumbs/thumbs_leafmotor.jpg]6100Leaf Motor

The Netherlands has a fleet of 18 million bicycles.[74] E-bikes have reached a market share of 10% by 2009, as e-bikes sales quadrupled from 40,000 units to 153,000 between 2006 and 2009,[75] and the electric-powered models represented 25% of the total bicycle sales revenue in that year.[74] By early 2010 one in every eight bicycles sold in the country is electric-powered despite the fact that on average an e-bike is three times more expensive than a regular bicycle.[70][75]

Yes, I’ve seen this problem. Homes that have only a 10A circuit breaker are often not enough for these welders. The room I wanted to use mine in had a 10A, so I switched it for a 20A breaker at the breaker box and now it works fine.

Karl at electric-fatbike.com is the Bafang mid drive guru, and even though the BBSHD only maxes out at a slightly higher amperage (30A vs the 25A on the smaller BBS02), the extra copper mass in the BBSHD stator means that at 52V X 30A = 1560W of power, the BBSHD barely gets warm, because it is larger and also sheds heat better. Even if used at the same watts as the BBS02, the stator of the BBSHD is 66% wider, so it will definitely make more torque.

Hi Craig! Sorry for the delayed response here… extremely busy times including some family stuff going on right now. Given your mostly road + a bit of gravel and the desire to go fast and far I’d recommend the Focus Thron Impulse Speed… This thing goes up to 28 mph, has a range of 100+ depending on the assist level you use, offers slick but cushy tires for road but also has full suspension for a bit of trail. Given your height, this bike would offer an excellent fit because it comes in four frame sizes and you’ll get a lot of utility with the integrated lights and mirror for those longer rides which might expose you to different times of day and busy traffic. Your idea about adding an aftermarket bar is a good one and I’ve done just this on a hybrid Trek I used for commuting in Austin years ago. You could explore stems that are shorter and more angled (upwards) and bars that are swept back a bit so you don’t have to lean forward as much. The full suspension should really help with your back and neck and is very nice to have when riding at higher speeds for longer time periods. Honestly, 100 miles is a long way to go so I wouldn’t bother with an extra pack right away, feel your way into it because I’m sure it will be $700+. As for your wife, there are very few electric recumbents available. It seems that many people use a kit to convert their trike and BionX has been popular because it’s available in many wheel sizes, offers throttle and assist and has regeneration. As an alternative, you could explore the Ridekick Power Trailer but it’s much noisier than the gearless hubs from BionX. Either of these options allows you to choose the perfect bike first and then go electric. I hope this helps! The Stromer ST2, Specialized Turbo, Easy Motion Nitro City and IZIP E3 Dash are also good speed pedelecs but don’t get the same range or offer the same comfort as the Focus Thron.

Hi Len, I think I understand and was recommending against the added weight and complexity of two motors. It has been done (Easy Motion sells a couple of all-wheel-drive ebikes) but wiring both motors into a single battery could be tricky and the alternative of having two batteries would take up a lot of space and add weight. In terms of torque from mid-drive vs. rear hub, I think it depends on the system you go with, both can be powerful and effective… You made a good point about the chain and rust. I don’t have enough data to recommend one way over the other, both have pros and cons… I might go with the cheaper option since it sounds like the bike is going to get run down in the environment so replacement will be less expensive down the road.

The batteries can be paralleled at any charge level as long as they are all the SAME charge level, i.e. same voltage. If they are all 3.81 V then you can parallel them, or you can charge them all to 4.2V and then parallel them, both are fine options. But if you are putting many parallel groups in series then it is a good idea to get them all to the same charge level first. That will make the first charge of the whole pack much easier as the BMS doesn’t have to balance cell groups that are at very different charge levels.

Cyclone is one of the earliest producers of mid-drives, they are from hilly Taiwan. Although this looks like a simple drive set up, the Cyclone mid drive is actually a cylindrical Headway motor attached to a planetary gear-box, providing 10:1 reduction, attached to a double freewheel. Although the steel gears of the reduction are noisier than the GNG or BBS02, they are fully enclosed to protect them from dirt.

If you are thinking about building your own LiPo pack, a 48V / 10-Ah battery pack can be made for around $300. However to undertake this project you should research extensively on www.endless-sphere.com on how to build and take care of your pack. Expect hours of reading before you are ready to build a pack of your own.

Weight for weight, nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries have more capacity than lead-acid battery, and capacity is an important consideration on an electric bike. However, nickel- cadmium is expensive and cadmium is a nasty pollutant and hard to recycle. On the other hand, NiCd batteries will last longer than lead-acid batteries. But the reality is that because they are so hard to recycle or get rid of safely, NiCd batteries are rapidly becoming a thing of the past. These are also not a good choice of battery type, regardless of price.

A folding electric bike designed to be durable and water resistant, cast rims can handle more weight and won’t go out of true, stainless steel hardware won’t rust. Feature complete with fenders, a sturdy rear rack, larger reflective tires and LED lights, you……

I`m trying to figure out a system that offer the less drag possible when pedaling ,but can assist me if the dogs chase me or strange person in the road appears. I don` t mind pedaling heavy weights 250 all include ,what really bother me is the drag .Can you point me in the less drag direction ,and assist power.Thank you in advance.

Cool project! I’d check out electric rider (www.electricrider.com) as I know they have some good electric rickshaw and electric tricycle kits. You’re looking for a strong 48V motor that is geared really low. You want torque, not speed. With slow speed, something in the 1,000 – 1,500W is probably enough. Just don’t expect to be flying down the road…

Should the voltage on the charger be exact, or can it be *higher* than my battery pack? For example, I need to charge a 19.2V pack. Does my charger have to *exactly match* (or come as close to as possible to) this 19.2V, or can I use a higher voltage charger, (say, 36V)? Will the charger automatically adjust to a lower voltage, allowing a 36V charger to charge my 19.2V pack?

Amazing article, just what I needed. Have been doing LOTS of research but have struggled to find any real answers on which charger I should buy for my homemade battery. I am making a 48V 13s4p battery with a BMS (with balancing) like yours but am stuck as to whether I need to buy a normal bulk charger or a ‘smart charger’ that will balance the battery. My question is will the BMS balance the battery on its own or will I need to get a charger that balances also?

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Climbing is where mid-drive motors really shine. Unlike a hub motor, this design lives at or near the bottom bracket (the point where the crank arms attach through the frame for pedaling) and drives the chain forward instead of the wheel itself. Mid drive systems benefit from many of the same mechanical drivetrain systems as the rider (the use of gears for climbing or going fast) and reduce unsprung weight. This is the optimal setup for efficiency (extending ride distance) and climbing.

An all-wheel drive electric fat bike with adjustable drive modes (rear, front or both with traction control), beautifully integrated battery and compact motors blend in making it stealth. Upgraded quick release and thru-axle design makes the rear wheel easier to remove and the……

Power: 500W / 36V. Allow you to swap two power modes between the full 500W power to 750W power by a single blue switch wire is embedded in controller. (Only for Twist Throttle). Still remain the full …

Court, I have enjoyed reading and watching your reviews of ebikes. I bought a Neo 29er today from a San Francisco area ebike dealer mainly due to your high opinion of Easy Motion ebikes. Dealer gave me a very good price. Hopefully with the battery change on the new Evo BH will continue to support the Neo line.

However, the description says The monolithic 12V batteries do not have any PCM (any electronics) inside. They consist of finely balanced cells with identical perfomace. The battery must be managed as a single monolithic 12V block.

An older battery technology that was popular around 10 years ago as replacment for lead acid in some more expensive commercially available e-bikes. Today it has been obsoleted  in e-bike applications because of the recent availability of LiPo and LiFePO4 cells. NiMH is a finicky technology to deal with. The packs do not have long life expectancy, and have to be treated delicately. One big problem for DIYers is that its very hard to safely charge NiMh cells that have been soldered together in parallel. Extra care is needed for NiMH in both assembling and charging.

If you want to go 50mph and have a 500 or 1,000-watt monster motor on your electric bike you’ll need big expensive, heavy batteries, and you might as well buy a motor scooter or motorcycle. If you wan…

I’m deeply uncomfortable with recommending RC LiPo from the likes of Turnigy for people who don’t know what they’re doing. The above 3 options are plug and play and require no special skills. And they’re essentially safe when bulk charged with the associated charger.

The Panasonic 18650pf is a good cell, that’s the one I used here. I also http://electricbikecharger.com the Samsung 26F, though it’s a fairly low power cell, and the Samsung 29E which is a bit higher power cell. The Samsung 30Q is a fairly new cell that has good specifications but doesn’t have as long a life – everything is a trade-off.

GNG now has a different version of the mid drive where the belt reduction (prone to failure) has been replaced by a gear drive at the end of the motor. Has anyone tried it? You can’t argue with the price, but what’s the quality and longevity?

I have cerebral palsy and have used a powerchair since I was three…. About a year and a half ago I applied for a grant from the Challenged Athlete Foundation for a handcycle. While I was waiting for letters to go out I worked out at the gym. I was talking to my trainer about handcycles. I explained that because all of the weight was behind the drive wheel in…

Most of the price involved these days in building an e-bike or buying a ready to go e-bike is the size and chemistry  of the battery pack. For the consumer its important to understand  the difference between a 24V, 36V, and 48V pack. Also know what a 10-Ah pack is compared to a 5-Ah pack.

Next comes the heat shrink tube. Large diameter heat shrink tube is hard to find, and I got lucky with a big score of different sizes from a Chinese vendor before his supply dried up. Your best bet is to check sites like eBay for short lengths of heat shrink in the size you need.

The sense wires generally connect to the positive of each cell group, but sometimes there is one more sense wire than parallel groups because the first sense wire is intended to connect to the negative of the first cell group, then all the subsequent sense wires connect to the positive of each cell group. Each BMS should be labeled on the board to show where each sense wire goes (B1-, B1+, B2+, B3+, etc…)

I have a Stromer ST1 and I just got my wife the Optibike Pioneer allroad. We both are short (5’6″ and 5’4″, 150 pounds and 100 pounds) but we pull our sons in the Weehoo Trailer. So that adds another 60 pounds. We have very steep hills in our area. We just took our first ride with the optibike and it feels like it has about 1/2 the power on the steep hills as the Stromer. I thought the mid motor would do better on hills (optibike is 500W mid mount, stomer is 600W rear hub). Can you help me understand this and help with a better option for more power? Thanks! Oh, and I should add. We want peddle assist and throttle modes.

Now the game plan here is to weld parallel groups of 3 cells (or more or less for your pack depending on how much total capacity you want). To weld the cells in parallel, we’ll need to weld the tops and the bottoms of the cells together so all 3 cells share common positive and negative terminals.

These guys (Applied Future Technologies) are in Australia, and although they use the same motor and geared reduction as Cyclone, the rest of the kit parts are heavy duty and this fixes many of the complaints from Cyclone users. The distinctive added fins help the Headway motor shed heat much faster.

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One Reply to ““electric bicycle motors -electric bike diy””

  1. Ideally, I would buy a battery with the same type of connection and just carry the spare one unconnected and swap them over but I don’t seem to be able to find the type of battery case for sale anywhere. It’s a quick release bottle type battery that has two sprung terminals about half inch in diameter that contact with two large terminals on what I think must be the motor controller integrated into the bottom of the bottle mounting bracket.
    at an extremely high efficiency (up to around 80%), doing more with less wattage, and thus not heating up too quickly while giving plenty of torque. In fact, in our testing of the new drive we’ve found it to be on par with a mid-drive motor system in terms of giving consistent torque on extremely steep hills. Other benefits of the Xion drive include a sophisticated control panel, regenerative brake assist, a quick release rear hub, and one of the most smooth performing torque sensors on the market.

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